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Luke Azzopardi Couture Collection at ICA – London Fashion Week Catwalk
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Maltese designer’s ninth collection takes inspiration from all sorts of architectural structures as well as bodily castings. Azzopardi’s injury which resulted in him having a cast inspired the designer with a visual research project into external supporting structures whether it’s to do with human body or gothic architecture.

“When you look at gothic architecture, it’s all about outer shells and casings, such as flying buttresses and rib vaulting, which are created in order to produce permanent structures but using the least amount of material possible. So that got me thinking about how this could be transferred into fashion.”, says Azzopardi.

This specific couture collection which was featured at this year’s London Fashion week showcases 20 different pieces. These include a sheer, floor length corseted gown, hand-embellished with iridescent sequins and a leather corseted dress with 3D statement front skirt, emblazoned with Azzopardi’s own name. The designer even went to the extent of showing his x-rays printed on to fabric, including that of a long-line tailored jacket, complete with voluminous underskirt. Feminine fabrics such as tulle, velvet and silk, alongside embellishments such as sequins and feathers, juxtapose a moody colour palette of deep purple, dark teal, mustard and monochrome. 

Azzopardi was also inspired by the Nibbia Chapel, otherwise known as the ‘The Lost Chapel of Bones’, in his native, Malta. “The chapel was created in medieval style but its actual a lot later, its actually baroque and together with a print designer we created prints using images of the chapel.”, explains Azzopardi.

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It’s also important to point out that part of the collection was made from sustainable leather by-products, Azzopardi’s first foray into the world of accessories, whilst head and face pieces were made in collaboration with Kane Cali who played with the idea of exoskeletons.

Azzopardi explains of the collection; “The garments themselves are not forms of bodily decoration or adornment, they are more pieces of armour.”

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