Haider Ackermann is a Columbian-born designer known infamously for his avant-garde draping and detailed work with leather, that houses such as Christian Dior, Chanel, and Martin Margiela have all approached him for, perceiving him as the future of fashion.
This collection exemplified just that.
Mr. Ackermann’s AW ’17 collection was my favorite by far. Not only did he mainly focus on blacks (can focusing on black ever go wrong?), but clean, sharp lines, boyish styles and extremely wearable garments were present. As this collection differed greatly from last year’s, it can easily be concluded his change in style probably came from being the recent creative director at Berluti – owned by LVMH.
While we see maximalism making a bigger trend this year (see Gucci), Ackermann brings us back to clean, professional and minimalistic lines using materials such as silk and feathers for some extra glam. In this collection, he took on regular pieces such as a halter-neck, but utilizing elegant materials (silk-lining), and incorporating twists at the nape, created a chic and polished effect. To achieve this effect Ackermann had to reduce his color palette, and focus on monochrome.
As many designers continue to incorporate strong political statements in their shows, Mr. Ackermann focused on the power of women instead, by opening up the show with three beautiful Black models to make a point about the dignity and serenity of women.